HOW TO STITCH A STRAIGHT-CUT KAMEEZ/ KURTIS





Kameez and Kurtis are usually stitched with a straight cut pattern. They can be worn with  Salwars, Patiyalas or Churidhars. Straight cut kameez is slightly different from A- line kameez which has more flair at the bottom. The construction and method of stitching a straight cut Kameez is discussed here. A Kurti is slightly shorter than the regular kameez.

Construction

0 to 1 – length of the kameez
0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"
2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”
0 to 4 – half shoulder
4 to 5 – 1/2"
0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”
0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)
6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)
0 to 9 – Waist length
9 to 10 - ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”
9 to 11 - waist to hip length = (7” or 8”)
11 to 12 - ¼ hip + 1” or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”
1 to 13 – 11 to 12 measurement + 1”

 


Join 3 to 5 through a curve passing through‘d’ as shown. ‘a’ is the midpoint of 3 and ‘d’. Take ‘b’ ½” from ‘a’ and draw another curve from 3 to 5 through ‘b’ and‘d’. The inner curve through ‘b’ is the front arm hole, and the outer curve through ‘a’ is the back arm hole.

Join 6 to 8 through a curve to get the front neck and 6 to 7 through a curve to get the back neck.

Join 6 to 5 for the shoulder.

The opening of a straight cut kameez can be taken at 12 measurement or 1” or 2” above 12 measurement.





Method

For stitching a straight cut kameez, first measure and note down the body measurements. 

Then take the cloth, open it in the reverse such that the two selve dges of the cloth are on top of each other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other. 

 

Mark the measurements directly on the cloth using the construction given above (Or first make a paper draft). Then join all the lines and curves. 

Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and bottom of the dress and ½” extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and arm hole, cut the cloth. Remember that the front and back necks and arm holes have to be cut separately because their curves are different.  Hence take care while cutting it. Most importantly the shoulder line of all the four pieces must be equal.

Stitching has to be done on the marked lines and curves.

Begin stitching by first finishing the neck. Refer FINISHING THE NECK to get details on how it is done.Short or long sleeves can be stitched to the kameez. For the construction and method of stitching sleeves, check out the SLEEVES page. Once the sleeves are cut, double fold the ends and stitch on top and then stitch the sleeves to the arm holes. Note that the front part of each sleeve will have a slightly deeper arm hole curve just like the front arm hole of the kameez. Once the sleeves are cut, start stitching the sides starting from the ends of the sleeves and stopping at the opening at the sides.  Check out STITCHING THE SIDES for a more detailed explanation. Finally finish the bottom end by double folding the extra cloth and stitching. Your straight cut kameez is now ready. Turn the dress to the reverse and over lock the cloth to prevent threads from coming out.

The images are just a pictorial representation.
I have tried to explain the method as clearly as possible but it is advisable to use your discretion while stitching this dress.

For more tutorials visit the dress designs page.



6 comments:

  1. Very easy way u teached dear. Nice post.

    today's recipe:
    http://sanolisrecipies.blogspot.in/2012/12/prawn-in-poppy-paste-chingri-posto.html

    ReplyDelete
  2. Wish I would learn tailoring sometime in the future..

    ReplyDelete
  3. Your space keeps me updated with the latest trends. thanks for sharing Amina!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Clear and good explanation. Thanks Amina

    ReplyDelete

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