HOW TO STITCH A KAMEEZ/ A-LINE KAMEEZ WITH PATTERN




Salwar Kameez is the most commonly worn dress in India. Here I have shared the tutorial on stitching a basic Kameez. A tutorial on stitching a salwar can be found here. You can also check out how to stitch a Straight cut kameez for a more fitted design and pattern. Sometimes kameez are stitched without opening at the sides and are often paired with Churidhars or gathering pants


Material required: 2 ½ metres of cloth

Construction

0 to 1 – Kameez length
0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"
2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”
0 to 4 – half shoulder
4 to 5 – 1/2"
0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”
0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)
6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)
0 to 9 – Waist length
9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”
1 to 11- 2 to 3 measurement +2” or 3”
11 to 13- 1”


  • Mark the measurements on the cloth with a chalk. Join 6 to 7 for the back neck and 6 to 8 for the front neck. Join 6 to 5 for the shoulder.
  • For the arm hole curves, join 3 to 5 through a curve passing through ‘d’ as shown. ‘d’ is the midpoint of 4 and ‘c’. ‘a’ is the midpoint of 3 and ‘d’. Take ‘b’ ½” from ‘a’ and draw another curve from 3 to 5 through ‘b’ and ‘d’. The inner curve through ‘b’ is the front arm hole, and the outer curve through ‘a’ is the back arm hole.
  • Join 3 to 10 and extend the curve up to 13 by slightly curving the line as shown (you may have noticed that 10 to 13 line is not a straight line it is slightly curved near the hip area.)
  • Join 1, 12 and 13 as shown.




Method

First measure and note down the body measurements. You can make a paper draft first or directly mark the measurements on the cloth.

Take the cloth, open it and fold in the reverse such that the two selvedges of the cloth are on top of each other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other. 


Mark the measurements directly on the cloth using the construction given above. Then join all the lines and curves.

Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and bottom of the dress and ½” extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and arm hole, cut the cloth. (You can refer the pink line for the cutting line.) Remember that the front and back necks and front and back arm holes have different curves and hence have to be cut separately. Hence take care while cutting it. Most importantly the shoulder line of all the pieces must be equal.

Stitching has to be done on the marked lines and curves.

After the pieces are cut and ready, finish the neck. For this refer FINISHING THE NECK for more details on its method. Then cut the sleeves, double fold the ends and stitch on top of the fold. Once the sleeves are ready, stitch it to the arm holes. You can stitch normal SHORT SLEEVES, LONG SLEEVES, PUFF SLEEVES according to your choice. Refer their respective pages for their construction and method.

In case you do not want opening at the sides, stitch the sides along the 3 to 13 line and reverse stitch at the ends. For stitching an opening at the sides, refer STITCHING THE SIDES for more details. In this case the opening can start 6” or 8” below the 10 measurement. Finally finish by double folding the bottom end and stitching. Your A-line kameez is now ready. Turn the dress to the reverse and over lock the cloth to prevent threads from coming out.

For more tutorials visit the dress designs page.




1 comment:

  1. Hello Amina...oh! its been some time since i dropped in here..need to go theu other posts in detail. nice write up on aline...well explained. keep in touch...

    ReplyDelete

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