Kameez, tops or kurtis come in various shapes and patterns. Kameez with overlapping are also quite popular. The extra cloth overlaps only the upper part of the kameez or the whole kameez. In this post the method of stitching a kameez with an extra piece overlapping the upper portion of the kameez is discussed.
Construction
0 to 1 – length of the kameez
0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"
2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”
0 to 4 – half shoulder
4 to 5 – 1/2"
0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”
0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)
6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)
0 to 9 – Waist length
9 to 10 - ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”
9 to 11 - waist to hip length = (7” or 8”)
11 to 12 - ¼ hip + 1” or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”
1 to 13 – 11 to 12 measurement + 1”
Join 3 to 5 through a curve passing through‘d’ as shown. ‘a’ is the midpoint of 3 and ‘d’. Take ‘b’ ½” from ‘a’ and draw another curve from 3 to 5 through ‘b’ and‘d’. The inner curve through ‘b’ is for the front arm hole, and the outer curve through ‘a’ is for the back arm hole.
Join 6 to 8 through a curve to get the front neck and 6 to 7 through a curve to get the back neck.
Join 6 to 5 for the shoulder.
The opening of a straight cut kameez can be taken at 12 measurement or 1” or 2” above 12 measurement.
Method
For stitching an overlapping kameez, first measure and note down the body measurements.
Then take the cloth, open it in the reverse such that the two selvedges of the cloth are on top of each other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other.
Mark the measurements directly on the cloth using the construction given above. Then join all the lines and curves.
Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and bottom of the dress and ½” extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and arm hole, cut the cloth. Remember that the front and back necks and arm holes have to be cut separately because their curves are different. Hence take care while cutting it. Most importantly the shoulder line of all the four pieces must be equal.
Once the front and back pieces are cut, make a draft using the above measurements till the 9 to 10 measurement. Using the draft mark the following measurements on it to get the overlapping part.
0 to a = 0 to 9 measurement – 2”
10 to b = 3” or 4”
After marking on the draft, cut on the orange line and curves. Your overlapping draft is now ready. Take the draft for the overlapping and place on the remaining cloth and cut it leaving ½” allowance on all curves. Do piping along the b to c curve and the neck area and along d to 10 line with a cloth of matching or contrasting colour. Once the overlapping piece is ready, stitch it to the front part of the kameez.
Now start by stitching at the shoulders then finish the neck. For this refer FINISHING THE NECK. Then stitch short, long or puff sleeves to the arm holes. For the construction and method of stitching sleeves, check out their respective pages. Once the sleeves are cut, double fold the ends and stitch on top and then stitch the sleeves to the arm holes. Note that the front part of each sleeve will have a slightly deeper arm hole curve just like the front arm hole of the kameez. Once the sleeves are stitched to the arm holes, start stitching the sides starting from the ends of the sleeves and stopping at the opening at the sides.
Check out STITCHING THE SIDES for more detailed explanation. Finish the bottom end by double folding the extra cloth and stitching. Your top is now ready. Turn the dress to the reverse and over lock the cloth to prevent threads from coming out.
Other patterns
To stitch an overlapping as shown below, mark the following measurements on the draft.
0 to a = 0 to 9 measurement – 2”
10 to e = 2” or 3”
e to b = 3” or 4”
You can stitch the overlapping part on the kameez or leave it loose along the c to b and e to b curve and stitch a button or draw string near b.
You can also stitch show buttons, or add beads and sequins to enhance the look of the dress.
The images are just a pictorial representation.
I have tried to explain the method as clearly as possible but it is advisable to use your discretion while stitching this kameez. If you are a beginner then you can start by stitching a basic kameez or kurti and then move on to other patterns.
I have tried to explain the method as clearly as possible but it is advisable to use your discretion while stitching this kameez. If you are a beginner then you can start by stitching a basic kameez or kurti and then move on to other patterns.
For more tutorials visit the dress designs page.
Excellent..the overlapped kurti pattern is really useful
ReplyDeletereally very nice, thanks very useful and clear contruction
ReplyDeletethank you very much and please share blouse tutorial
ReplyDelete