Anarkali suits are currently in fashion. Different types of anarkali suits are available in the market depending on their cuts and styles. In this post the method of stitching anarkali suit with half flare circular cut is discussed. For people who are slightly on the fatter side, this pattern of anarkali is ideal as it has half the normal flair of the umbrella cut Anarkali suits. Chiffon, georgette, net materials or cotton fabrics can be used for stitching the half flare umbrella cut anarkali suit.
This type of anarkali suit has 2 parts, an upper part and a lower part. For both the parts lining cloth has to be stitched. Depending on what material you use, select the lining appropriately. The lining cloth should always be of the same colour as the main cloth.
For stitching the upper part of the anarkali top, take the two fabrics and keep ready. You need about 1 1/2 metres of cloth for the upper part and about 3 1/2 metres of cloth for the lower cloth. For the lining, you need cloth of about 2 1/2 metres.
Construction and Method
For the upper part
0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"
2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”
0 to 4 – half shoulder
4 to 5 – 1/2"
0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”
0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)
6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)
0 to 9 – Waist length minus 2” (since anarkali has a high waist)
9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”
To begin with, first measure and note down the body measurements. Then prepare a draft for the upper part on paper using the construction given above and cut on the marked lines. Keep the draft ready.
Now take the main cloth, fold it in the reverse such that the two selve edges of the cloth are on top of each other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other. Now you will have 4 layers. Make sure that you are seeing the reverse part.
Place the draft on top of the cloth and mark the outline on the cloth using a chalk. Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and ½” extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and armhole, cut the cloth. The front and back necks and arm holes have to be cut separately because their curves are different. Hence take care while cutting it. The shoulder line of all the four layers must be equal. For more details refer How to stitch a kameez.
For the lower part
After cutting the cloth for the upper part, the cloth for the lower part has to be cut. For this, take a big width cloth of about 3 ½ metres long. Fold the cloth as shown in the figure, mark the following measurements and cut one semi circle as shown.
0 to 1
0 to 2 = 1/6 waist
0 to 3
1 to 4
2 to 5 = Length of the lower part + 1” (stitching allowance)
3 to 6
Stitch at the sides to form a half flare anarkali skirt. Mark 4 points on the inner circle at equidistant intervals and stitch notches by taking 1” cloth each. (This is done to make the curved part straight.)
Once the upper part and lower part of the main dress are cut and ready, take the lining cloth and cut using A line kameez pattern (since we do not need flare for the lining). Check out the construction of A line kameez for details and make sure that you keep the same length for both the lining and main cloth.
After the lining is also cut and ready, start stitching the pieces together. Join the front pieces of the main cloth and the lining cloth and finish the front neck. Similarly finish the back neck. Join the two necks at the shoulders. Cut the sleeves using the remaining cloth. Refer Finishing the neck and Cutting the sleeves for their construction. Then stitch the half flare umbrella part to the upper part of the main cloth. This part is slightly tricky as the lower part has stitches on only one side. Next stitch the sides of the upper part. Once done, cut and stitch the sleeves to the arm holes. (Anarkalis usually have long sleeves but you can also stitch Puff sleeves or normal sleeves as shown in the picture. The tutorial on puffed sleeves, normal sleeves and long sleeves can be found by clicking on the links.)
Now carefully stitch the sides of the lining cloth. The bottom end of the lining should be double folded 2” to 3” whereas the bottom end of the main cloth can be double folded 1/2" or a lace can also be attached or a picot can be done. (You can also stitch a waist band at the joint between the upper and lower parts if you like). Once the dress is stitched, turn the cloth to the reverse and overlock the extra cloth to prevent threads from coming out. Your half flare anarkali suit is now ready.
For more tutorials visit the dress designs page.