Anarkali suits have always remained in fashion. They are usually worn with gathering pants or churidhars. There are different patterns of anarkali depending on their cut and design. I have already done posts on how to stitch a basic anarkali suit , how to stitch anarkali suit with layers and in this post the method of stitching anarkali suit with panels is discussed. In this type of anarkali suit, mono color or multicolor panels are stitched just below the waist.

For the upper part

0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"
2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”
0 to 4 – half shoulder
4 to 5 – 1/2"
0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”
0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)
6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)
0 to 9 – Waist length minus 2” (since anarkali has a high waist)
9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”


For stitching the anarkali suit, take two fabrics one main cloth and one lining cloth. The main cloth can be chiffon, georgette, silk or cotton. The lining cloth should always be of the same colur as the main cloth.

Since the lower part has panels or kallis, the upper part and lower part of the main cloth have to be cut separately and then stitched together in the end. The lining cloth can be cut as an  A line kameez

First begin by measuring and noting down the body measurements. Then prepare a draft for the upper part on paper using the construction given above and cut on the marked lines. Keep the draft ready.

Now take the cloth, fold it in the reverse such that the two selve edges of the cloth are on top of each other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other. Now you will have 4 layers. Make sure that you are seeing the reverse part.


Place the draft on top of the cloth and mark the outline on the cloth using a chalk. Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and ½” extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and armhole, cut the cloth. The front and back necks and arm holes have to be cut separately because their curves are different. Hence take care while cutting it. The shoulder line of all the four layers must be equal. For more details refer How to stitch a kameez.

After cutting the cloth for the upper part, the cloth for the lower part have to be cut. For this, thin pieces of cloth or kallis have to be cut and stitched to one another and finally stitched to the upper part.

For cutting the kallis or panels, first measure the total length of the dress and subtract the 0 to 9 measurement. Now you will get the length of each panel or kalli.

For example, if you want the length of the anarkali suit to be = 50” and 0 to 9 measurement = 12”, then length of each panel = 38”. You can have four or six panels for the front and back (i.e. total 8 or 12).

Here I will be discussing anarkali suit with 4 panels in front and back (total 8 panels)

For calculating the upper breadth and lower breadth of each kalli (panel), the following procedure has to be followed.

Upper breadth = waist/ (2 x 4)

Lower breadth = 3 x Upper breadth

For example, if waist = 24”, then each panel or kalli will have upper breadth = 3” and lower breadth = 9”.

Using this measurement cut 8 kallis (4 for the front and four for the back ) and leave ½” extra cloth on all sides for stitching allowance.

The best method of cutting the pieces is given below.

Once all the kallis are cut and ready, stitch them together and make sure to fold and stitch the extra cloth properly in the reverse such that the threads don’t come out. Give a stitch on top as well so that the kallis stand in place.

Stitch 4 kallis together and another four together. Stitch one set to the front side of the upper part and the other set to the back side of the upper part. 

Once done, you will have 2 main pieces, one for the front and another for the back. Then using the construction and method of the A line kameez, cut the lining cloth. Make sure that the total length of the lining cloth is same as that of the length of your anarkali top.

Now you will have in total 4 pieces, two for the front (main cloth and lining cloth) and two pieces for the back (main cloth and lining cloth). Stitch the two front pieces together at the shoulder line and the two back pieces at the shoulder line. Then stitch all the 4 pieces along the shoulder line and finish the neck . You can stitch a normal neck or a collar as shown in the image above. For this refer Stitching the neck for normal neck or how to stitch a collar for a neck with collar. Next attach the sleeves to the arm holes. Refer the construction for long sleeves for more details.

Once the sleeves are attached, start stitching the sides from the sleeve end. Stop till you reach the 10 measurement. The lower part has to be stitched separately at the sides since the lining cloth has A line pattern and the main cloth has panels or kallis. Once the sides are stitched, double fold the lining cloth 2” or 3" and stitch. The main cloth can be double folded ½” or a picot can be done. Four panel Anarkali suit is now ready. To stitch a churidhar, refer how to stitch a gathering pant or churidhar for its construction.

I have tried to explain the method of stitching this variety of anarkali suit as clearly as possible but making anarkali suit with kallis is quite complicated, hence it is advisable to use your discretion while you stitch. If you are a beginner it is recommended to start with stitching basic kameez or a basic anarkali suit before trying out this one.

The images are just a pictorial representation. Hence it might not be exact.

For more tutorials visit the dress designs page.


  1. Hi amina
    Your blog is very interesting. Give a tutorial of circular cut anarkali

    1. Hi... you can check out how to stitch full flare umbrella cut anarkali suit for the tutorial... Full flare anarkali and circular cut are the same...

    2. if you want to make 24 kali how would divide for measurement

    3. For a anarkali with 24 panels, i.e.12 panels in front and 12 at the back, each panel should have upper breadth = waist/ (2 x 12) and lower breadth = 3 x upper breadth

  2. Hi amina
    How to stitch parellel pants?

    1. Hi Anu,
      You can check out this link for the tutorial on parallel pants...

  3. Hi amina
    No other pages allow me to write comments. Thats why here i write other pages comments.
    Your parellell pant tutorial is very helful for me. Thanks for that

    1. You can post comments on all pages of my blog... i have no idea why you where not able to post on other pages. Thanks for your comment...

  4. Hi amina
    Can u please post how to make a dori for a blouse

  5. i stitched with 36 panels but it is dropping on sides and not viewed fully, where did i do the mistake, pls help

    1. You have taken plenty of panels and if you have cut and stitched each piece properly, you will not have any dropping on the sides. If you think all is perfect and yet it is dropping on sides, then mark a curve where it is dropping and cut such that the anarkali looks perfect.

  6. HI amina , please say me i brought a anarkali xl size i want to stitch in small size . how can i do this

    1. Hi Parinita,

      It is difficult to give an idea without looking at the anarkali suit you have mentioned. And further anarkali suits require minute detail and any mistake done can spoil the look of the suit.

      I would like to discuss some points though which might help you First figure out what type of anarkali it is. If it is a full piece anarkali suit with pleats then see if on reducing the size you will have the pleats and shape in place. Only if you are confident, go about it.

      If it is two piece with upper part and lower part, then remove the stitches, alter the upper part, and make modifications to the lower part and stitch.

      I hope this helps :)

  7. This comment has been removed by the author.

  8. I read your article. I really like your blog. You have a beautiful collection of Anarkali Suits. All the designs are very beautiful, with beautiful designs and colors. I really appreciate your work.

  9. Really Awesome Posting that is very helpful for freshers stitchers Anarkali suit

  10. You have provided such a very useful information about the anarkali salwar suit to how to stitched. Thanks for sharing such a great information with us.

  11. Your blog is good. much helpful for the beginners like me. can u pls detail about full panel anarkali?

  12. Hi Amina your blog is wonderful I didn't try yet. want to make sure, I have a saree with border,if I cut
    skirt straight at bottom, is it Ok. in your blog I see straight.But afraid if have to be adjusted.
    Please clear my doubt. Thank you

    1. Hi Padma,
      Thanks for your comment. Making a skirt with a saree having a border can be tricky. Since I cannot have a look at your saree and the angle in which you are going to cut the panels, I can only say that if you follow the instructions correctly as given in the tutorial your skirt will come out well.. And while cutting the panels please have a look at the pictorial where the panels are cut. You will notice that half of your panels will have a border at the bottom and the remaining will not. So please be careful and use your discretion while cutting. I hope this helps. Do let me know how your skirt turned out.

  13. Hello I have a shimmer cloth with work on border , can you please suggest what kind of lining should I use under it, so that it will not become very heavy or very uneasy to stitch. Thank you

    1. Hi
      Thanks for your comment... You can use satin or silk material for the lining...


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