Anarkali suits are stitched with different patterns. I have already posted how to stitch basic Anarkali suit and Anarkali suit with layers, and in this post the method of stitching anarkali suit with umbrella cut is discussed. This type of anarkali suit has a full flare umbrella cut pattern and therefore has a nice appearance. Umbrella cut Anarkali suits are usually stitched with thin fabrics like chiffon and Georgette and usually has a lining material.
For stitching an anarkali top, you need two fabrics, a main cloth and a lining cloth. The lining cloth should always be of the same colour as the main cloth. The dress will have two parts, an upper part and a lower part cut in an umbrella cut fashion. For the upper part you need about 1 1/2 metres of cloth and for the lower part, about 3 1/2 metres of cloth. For the lining, you need cloth of about 2 1/2 metres.
Construction and Method
For the upper part
0 to 2 – 1/6 chest +1"
2 to 3 – 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 ¼ " or 1 ½”
0 to 4 – half shoulder
4 to 5 – 1/2"
0 to 6 – 1/6 round neck + 1/2”
0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3”)
6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6”)
0 to 9 – Waist length minus 2” (since anarkali has a high waist)
9 to 10- ¼ waist + 1” or 1 ¼” or 1 ½”
To begin with, first measure and note down the body measurements. Then prepare a draft for the upper part on paper using the construction given above and cut on the marked lines. Keep the draft ready.
Now take the cloth, fold it in the reverse and fold such that the two selve edges of the cloth are on top of each other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other. Now you will have 4 layers. Make sure that you are seeing the reverse part.
Place the draft on top of the cloth and mark the outline on the cloth using a chalk. Then leaving 1” extra cloth along the sides and ½” extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and armhole, cut the cloth. The front and back necks and arm holes have to be cut separately because their curves are different. Hence take care while cutting it. The shoulder line of all the four layers must be equal. For more details refer How to stitch a kameez.
For the lower part
After cutting the cloth for the upper part, the cloth for the lower part has to be cut. For this, take a big width cloth of about 3 ½ metres long. Fold the cloth as shown in the figure, mark the following measurements and cut one semi circle as shown.
0 to 1
0 to 2 = 1/6 waist
0 to 3
1 to 4
2 to 5 = Length of the lower part + 1” (stitching allowance)
3 to 6
In the same way fold again and cut another semi circle. These two semi circle pieces have to be joined at the sides later to form a full flare anarkali skirt. Mark 4 points on the inner circle at equidistant intervals and stitch notches by taking 1” cloth each. (This is done to make the curved part straight.)
Once the upper part and lower part of the main dress are cut and ready, take the lining cloth and cut using A line kameez pattern (since we do not need flare for the lining). Check out the construction of A line kameez for details and make sure that you keep the same length for both the lining and main cloth.
After the lining is also cut and ready, start stitching the pieces together. First stitch one upper part of the anarkali suit with the lower part at the waist. Similarly stitch the other upper part with the other lower part. Now you will have 2 pieces, one for the front and another for the back. And there will also be two lining pieces, one for the front and another for the back. Hence you will have 4 pieces, 2 for the front and 2 for the back.
Stitch the front part with the front part of the lining cloth and the back part with the back part of the lining cloth along the shoulder line to hold the pieces in place. Join the 4 pieces at the shoulders and finish the neck and sleeves. For these refer Finishing the neck and Cutting the sleeves for its construction. Once the neck part is completed and the sleeves are cut, stitch them to the armholes. (Anarkalis usually have long sleeves but you can also stitch Puff sleeves or normal sleeves as shown in the picture. The tutorial on puffed sleeves, normal sleeves and long sleeves can be found by clicking on the links.) Then start stitching both the sides starting from the sleeve ends to the upper part of the top. Do reverse stitches at the ends.
For the lower part, stitch the lining and the main part separately at the sides. The bottom end of the lining should be double folded 2” to 3” whereas the bottom end of the main dress can be double folded 1/2" or a lace can also be attached or a picot can be done. You can also stitch a waist band at the joint between the upper and lower parts if you like).
The images are just a pictorial representation. I have tried to explain the method of stitching this variety of anarkali suit as clearly as possible but it is advisable to use your discretion while you stitch. If you are a beginner it is recommended to start with stitching basic kameez or a basic anarkali suit before trying out this one.
For more tutorials visit the dress designs page.