HOW TO STITCH A FROCK




Frocks are one piece garments that are usually knee length and are flared at the waist. They come in varying shapes and sizes, have sleeves or are sleeve less.

I have already shared a post on the basic types of frocks and in this post the tutorial on how to stitch a waist fullness type frock is discussed.

First take the following body measurements and use them to calculate the measurements given in the construction part.

Length of the frock required
Waist length
Round waist
Round chest
Chest length
Shoulder

On information on how to take your body measurements check out this page.

A waist fullness type of frock has two parts one upper part and the other lower part which has a flare. 

Construction

0 to 1 - Total length of the frock 

For the upper part

0 to 2 - waist length 
2 to 3 – 1/4 waist + 1"
0 to 6 – chest length
6 to 7 - 1/4 chest + 1" 
0 to 4 – front neck depth 
0 to 10 - back neck depth
0 to 8 - half shoulder  
5 to 8 = 2 1/4"
8 to 9 - 1/2"


For the lower part

length = 2 to 1 = Total length - waist length + 1"
breadth = 1 to 11 = Twice 2 to 3 measurement
                2 to 11'








Method

For stitching a basic type of frock we need two fabrics one main fabric and another cotton lining fabric. 

First take the main cloth, fold it in the reverse such that you have 4 layers of cloth. Make sure that you are seeing the reverse part. 

Refer the construction given above and mark on the cloth. After marking on the cloth, cut the cloth leaving 1/2" allowance along the neck, shoulder and arm holes and 1" allowance along the sides. Now you will have 2 pieces, one for the front and other for the back. Use the front part and cut the lining cloth for the front part  Similarly use the back part to cut lining for the back. For the neck opening at the back, make a cut of about 4" length and 1/8" breadth at the centre.

For the lower part, take cloth and fold such that you have four layers. Mark on the cloth and cut the cloth. You will now have 2 pieces, one for the front and other for the back. Use the same measurement and cut the lining cloth. The main fabric and lining have to be pleated and stitched at the waist of the upper part. 

Stitching method:

Once the pieces are cut and ready, first start by stitching the upper part. Begin by stitching the lining to both the pieces and keep ready.

Now stitch the front and back pieces of the upper part along the shoulder and do piping at the neck, neck opening and arm holes.

Make sure that the piping at the back neck extends such that it forms a draw string to tie at the back. The extension for each side can be about 5"or 6".



Now take one main fabric that you have cut for the lower part and one lining fabric and pleat them together at the waist of the front part of the frock.
In the same way take another main fabric and lining fabric and pleat them at the waist of the back part of the frock.

In case you wish to stitch a draw string to tie at the waist,  cut 4 pieces using length and breadth given below. Take 2 pieces and turn to the reverse, stitch on three sides leaving 1/4" allowance and turn to the correct side. One draw string is ready. In the same way make another draw string. 

Length = Twice 2 to 3 measurement
Breadth = 1 and 1/2"

Now start stitching the two sides. Make sure to insert the draw strings at the waist.

Once the sides are also stitched, you can do a piping at the ends.

Your frock is now ready.

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