HOW TO STITCH UMBRELLA CUT SKIRT/ HALF FLARE SKIRT





A half flare umbrella cut skirt requires 2 ½ metres of big width cloth. It has less gathers (frills) and hence can be worn even by people who are fat. The method of stitching a half flare umbrella cut skirt is discussed here.


An umbrella cut skirt has two parts
  • Skirt
  • waist band
Approximate measurements are given in brackets for your reference. You can measure your own  waist and decide on how long you want your skirt to be.


Measurements needed

Skirt length (e.g. 41”)
Waist (e.g. 28”)
Waist Band width: 2” 

For the skirt part
Construction
0 to 1 = 1/3 waist (e.g. 28/3 = 9 ¼”)
0 to 2 = 1/3 waist (e.g. 28/3 = 9 ¼”)
0 to 3 = 1/3 waist (e.g. 28/3 = 9 ¼”)

1 to 4 = skirt length – waist band width + 1” (e.g. 41” – 2” + 1” = 40”)
2 to 5 = skirt length – waist band width + 1” (e.g. 41” – 2” + 1” = 40”)
3 to 6 = skirt length – waist band width + 1” (e.g. 41” – 2” + 1” = 40”)

Method

Open the cloth and fold it in the reverse such that two ends are on top of each other. Then check if the 0 to 4 length is less than the total width of the cloth. Add the 0 to 1 and 1 to 4 measurements (e.g. 49 ¼”). Place the inch tape and mark the 0 to 4 measurement.  Similarly mark all the measurements on the cloth. Join the 1 23 curve and 456 curves and cut the cloth leaving ½” allowance on both sides. Once cut it will be like this.



Mark 4 equidistant points along the waist, and stitch notches using ½” cloth. 



Stitch at the ends leaving an opening of about 4” and finish it using the placket opening .



Cut a strip of cloth of 5” breadth and length = waist length measured from the stitched skirt +3”. Fold it into half such that you have 2 ½” of cloth then fold ½” again and stitch to the waist making sure ½” of the waist part of the skirt is sandwiched between the two ends of the band. Continue stitching the extra part of the waist band till you reach the ends. Fold ½” inwards at the ends and stitch on top. Stitch buttons or hooks at the waist band and do picot stitch at the bottom of the skirt. Your skirt is now ready. 



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